VIC 7021 New fabricated steel 1310, 1330, or 3R-S44 series driveshaft with heavy duty U-joints. Includes slip yoke and balanced. $295.50. 18-28 lbs per shaft average.
VIC 7022 Same as VIC 7021 except 1350 PRO series drag race driveshaft. $295.50. 18-28 lbs per shaft average.
VIC 1310-AL Fabricated aluminum 1310 series driveshaft with heavy duty U-joints. Includes slip yoke. $465.50. 14-24 lbs per shaft average.
VIC 1350-AL Same as VIC 1310-AL except 1350 series. If needed 3-R adapter U-joints are extra. $495.50. 15-25 lbs per shaft average.
VIC 7027 New fabricated 4130 chrome moly 1310, 1330, or 3R-S44 series driveshaft with heavy duty U-joints. Includes slip yoke and balanced. $395.50. 16-26 lbs per shaft average.
VIC 7028 Same as VIC 7027 except 1350 PRO series drag race driveshaft. $395.50. 16-26 lbs per shaft average.
VIC 7029 New fabricated 4130 chrome moly 1310, 1330, or 3R-S44 series driveshaft with heavy duty U-joints. Includes slip yoke and balanced. This shaft is rifle drilled for weight savings and quicker ET. Not for street use. $445.50. 14-24 lbs per shaft average.
VIC 7030 Same as VIC 7029 except 1350 PRO series drag race driveshaft. $445.50. 14-24 lbs per shaft average.
Prices include: 2 Weld yokes, 2 HP u-joints, tubing, Slip Yoke, welding and balancing complete ready to go. The following are extra cost: all adapter u-joints = $25.00 extra, Corvette styled u-bolt or bolt and strap type slip yokes = $50.00 extra, Mopar 25 spline 1330 slip yokes = $35.00 extra, shorten, lighten or polish slip yokes for race or show applications = $40.00 extra.
HOW TO ORDER A DRIVESHAFT. Load vehicle with total operational race weight. The car must be at operational height. CAUTION: DO NOT measure with wheels hanging down from hoist or jack stands. Rear suspension must be at normal ride height to insure proper driveshaft length!!! Measure on the floor. Install a test yoke into the back of transmission, push all the way in, pull back 1.0". With the help of a friend measure the center to center measurement of the front u-joint to the rear u-joint on the differential. TIP: It is sometimes difficult to guess where the centerline of a u-joint is. By moving to the rear of the slip yoke u-joint cap instead of centerline and measuring to the rear of the differential u-joint cap it is the same as measuring center to center. You have just adjusted for the radius of the cap diameter and have a solid surface to measure on instead of an air gap in the center of the cap. Call us with the PROPER centerline to centerline dimension. Note NO-RETURNS. Get it right the first time. We will require faxed or US mailed your signature with the written dimensions for verification.
DRIVESHAFT & U-JOINT CARE
DO NOT re-torque the u-bolts on the diff yoke weekly. Set the initial torque at 12-15 lbs. The prevailing torque nuts provide with our yoke need never to be re-torqued. Over tightening of the u-bolts will cause the u-joint caps to become out of round and needle failure and extreme heat will happen. The result is a failed u-joint and perhaps a driveshaft coming out of your car at 8000 RPM!! This can make quite a mess and on occasion has been the cause of a crash. A driveshaft coming out is like a hand grenade going off under your right elbow & normally dents or takes out the floor pan. Even though most race sanctioning bodies only require one or two driveshaft hoops we recommend 3. One at the front u-joint, one in the center and one at the rear u-joint. It is also recommended that the driveshaft tunnel is built with the IHRA Pro-Mod specification of stainless or equivalent to protect the driver. The need for three hoops is the only safe way to keep the shaft from hitting the ground and catapulting the car when the shaft digs into the ground or to keep the shaft from thrashing about at half length if it breaks in the center. If the rear u-joint fails the driveshaft will still spin at engine rpm until you put the car into neutral or your rev limiter shuts down the engine. In the second case your shaft will still turn as the engine is spinning or until the clutch has been disengaged. If a driveshaft is going to fail it will start telling you ahead of time. Aluminum shafts do not have the life cycle of steel. Stress takes its toll on aluminum much earlier. So the racer has to be aware. Check for overheating u-joints monthly or when you do your under chasis check. It is recommended that a straight line be painted down the driveshaft when new. Each time you do your inspection, look at it. It is normal for a new aluminum shaft to twist 18 to 22 degrees when leaving the line at top RPM. It will normally spring back less 2 degrees and take a permanent set. When the tube starts to over-stress, you will begin to see an increase in the permanent twist. The painted line will show this to you. The u-joints in our shafts are non lube. They will be packed with a Moly-Lithium type EP lube. Most racers never attempt to lube them. The only way is to remove the u-joint from the shaft and repack them. U-joint weld yokes have to be heated to loosen them from the encasement. Galvanic corrosion is common in aluminum and steel caps. Our u-joints have a special coating to reduce the corrosion. The replacement should always be done by a driveshaft specialist.